The high-toned fruit of lofty elevations, deep minerality of volcanic soils, native grapes which thrive almost nowhere else in the world, and a reawakening tradition unfolding in our own lifetime.

Terroir

The Etna region is known for its unique truncated-conical shape, as well as being a large mountain and an active volcano with an altitude of over 3,000 meters. Its distinct climate, which is unique in the world, also adds to its character as a “North” in the South. The geology of the area, with different lava flows, results in a variety of pedoclimatic environments that have influenced the local flora and fauna, as well as the people who live there, who Salvo Foti refers to as Homo Ætneus.

Etna’s soils are composed of volcanic sands of varying textures, consisting of different lava flows and ages. The disintegration of lava flows of variable age with different minerals means there is significant variability from one area of the volcano to another. Depending on the slope of the terrain, the soil can also contain an abundance of ashes and lapilli from each lava flow, which can occur throughout the year. These components are rich in particular and unique minerals. Therefore, the terrains of Etna can be defined as virgin, primordial, visceral, and in constant change. It is crucial to note that Etna is a perpetually active volcano that never stops.

The terroir was so distinctive that when Frank Cornelissen first arrived, he thought it was like Piemonte from the ‘70s, the ‘80s and he thought, “Wow, I found a new Piemonte!”

Elevation

Etna’s highest vineyards are some of the highest that can be found in all of Italy – comparable to those of the Alpine region of Alto Adige – and are among the highest vineyard sites in all of Europe. Elevations such as these, which can reach well over 1,000 meters above sea level, often see snow year round. Even in the warmest years you can expect the climate near the summit to be a far cry from the lower lying vineyards of western and southern Sicily, where the bright Mediterranean sun can make over-ripeness a main harvest concern. At such great heights the diurnal shifts are severe, with ample, warming sun during the day and a bracing chill at night. This encourages exceptional balance in the resulting wines, as the grapes are able to achieve adequate ripeness but also retain their refreshing acidity. So while we expect bigger, more fruit-driven styles from much of Sicily, Etna’s wines are distinguishable by their typically leaner and brighter expression.
 

Etna DOC 

The Etna DOC wraps around the mountain in a backwards “C” shape, almost completely negating the western slope. Most of the best sites for Etna’s main red varietal, Nerello Mascalese, can be found between 600-900 meters above sea level stretching from the north slope of the mountain around the eastern flank, including the contrade of Guardiola, Calderera Sottana, and Feudo di Mezzo to name just a few. Within the eastern municipality of Milo is the only area on the mountain where Etna Bianco Superiore (a white wine DOC with stricter restrictions than that of Etna Bianco) can be made. Here you’ll find the contrada Rinazzo, prized for its Carricante, the major white varietal of Etna. The grapes grown here are so special that Benanti’s iconic Pietramarina bottling is made from 100% Carricante from this site, forgoing the more traditional practice of blending with Cataratto or other local grapes. 

 

History

The region of Etna boasts a remarkable history of wine production that spans over 6,000 years. Its fertile lands have attracted the attention of various civilizations, from the early medieval period to the Renaissance.

Following the devastating earthquake of 1693 and the subsequent tsunami, the southern slopes of Mount Etna gained significant importance for vineyards and the cultivation of the Nerello Mascalese grape. This led to a surge in the production of cutting wines, blending wines, and the distillation of wine during the phylloxera outbreak in the late 1800s.

However, World War II inflicted severe damage to the eastern part of Sicily, including Mount Etna and its surrounding countryside. This resulted in the abandonment of many vineyards. It wasn’t until the 1990s that a renewed interest in quality wine production emerged, with a focus on indigenous varieties like Carricante and Nerello Mascalese.

Over time, the area has seen a multitude of grape varieties introduced by various groups, including the Greeks, Crusaders, Benedictine and Capuchin monks, the Bishop of Catania, and the Spanish. Each grape has contributed something special to the area’s wines. Even now, vineyards may have a mix of Carricante and Nerello Mascalese, along with other indigenous cultivars like Coda di Volpe, Grecanico, Minnella Bianca, and Minnella Nera, each adding a unique flavor to the wines.

The area’s volcanic soils also play a vital role in contributing to the minerality and texture of the wines. The combination of its rich history, diversity of grape varieties, and unique terroir makes Etna one of the most special wine regions in the world.

Salvo Foti on the Palmento tradition

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The agricultural landscape on Etna is characterized by numerous beautiful and ancient manor houses, most of which are now abandoned. These properties were once owned by peasants, bourgeois, and nobles. Each vineyard had a home for the owner’s family and a palmento, which is a winemaking cellar for transforming the grapes grown on the property. The palmento, with its terraced vineyards, narrow streets, and dry stone walls, all built with lava stone, is surprisingly harmonized with the Etnean environment.

 
Even today, one can observe palmenti on Etna with varying vinification capacities, ranging from essential to sumptuous, and capable of producing anywhere from a few to thousands of hectoliters of wine. A defining feature of the manufacturing of Etna palmento is the use of lava stone and the exploitation of the natural slope and rugged orography of the Etna area. This design allows the force of gravity to aid in winemaking, with the crushing area, fermentation vats, pressing area, and cellar located at different and sloping altitudes.
 
From the end of the 1800s to the beginning of the 1900s, the Etna area produced approximately 100 million liters of wine using exclusively palmenti. While some modernizations and technical changes were implemented with the arrival of electricity, the system remained fundamentally the same.
 
In 1997, with the strict and indiscriminate application of EU laws on food hygiene and safety at work, the palmenti of Etna were banned and definitively closed. This led to the abandonment of thousands of palmenti and Etna vineyards and their irreversible destruction. While some producers continue to use the palmento to make their wine, they do so illegally. The lack of exceptions in the application of community laws designed to allow for gradual and financially sustainable adaptation of the Etna palmenti has led to their degradation, the abandonment of large areas of the Etna territory, and the loss of specialized winemaking workforce.
 
Adapting the Etna palmenti to modern winemaking techniques is necessary and indispensable if the remaining real estate and human assets are to be preserved. New techniques, greater knowledge, and a more conscious way of thinking can help integrate and harmonize the old with the new. The transition must be gradual and the changes not destructive but integrative and complementary.
 
Recovering and using the ancient palmenti is not only essential for maintaining, conserving, and safeguarding the territory and all that it contains and represents, but it also means recovering, using, and making productive the ancient winemaking techniques that are fundamental in producing excellent wine.
 
Laws must be reviewed to take into account real situations and adapt to existing ones while looking to the future. They must be at the service of humanity, not against it or only for the benefit of a few.
 

Grapes

Nerello Mascalese

This aromatic grape forms the backbone of Etna red wines, and Etna Rosso DOC wines must have a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese. Its small berries and deep purple skin with pink highlights are similar in appearance to Pinot Noir, but the grape has thicker skins and produces more tannic wines. Wines made from Nerello Mascalese featuring notes of almond, cherry liquor, herbs, and red fruits, as well as balsamic and menthol notes in some cases. These wines typically have a pale to medium garnet color and high acidity, with the potential for aging. Surprisingly, some aged wines may display a deep ruby color.
 
 

Nerello Mascalese. Photo: pauljill

Nerello Cappuccio

Nerello Cappuccio is used for blending in Etna red wines, adding color and fruit to the blend. Most Etna Rosso DOC wines will have between 10 to 20% (the maximum allowed) in the blend. Benanti has produced a 100% Nerello Cappuccio wine to showcase its unique characteristics, which include a light ruby color and soft fruit flavors of red fruits and strawberry. Contrary to the common belief that the grape adds structure and color to the blend, Nerello Cappuccio is better suited for adding charm and fruitiness.

 

Carricante

This is the primary grape used in Etna white wines, meaning “abundant crop” in Italian. At present, white wines make up only 8% of the total Etna wine production, but this figure is on the rise as the exceptional qualities of the Carricante grape become better understood. Marco de Grazia, a pioneer in Etna winemaking, originally intended to produce red wines, but was taken aback by the potential quality of Carricante wines. According to de Grazia, while Nerello Mascalese is challenging to cultivate, it is comparatively easier to produce wines from, whereas Carricante is the opposite: simple to grow, but difficult to turn into a great wine. This point is evident when sampling Etna Biancos, as they are stylistically diverse with varying aromas such as grapefruit, apple peel, lemon peel, herbal, almond, and floral notes. The finest exhibit a characteristic waxiness, akin to Loire Chenin, and boast exceptional minerality.

 

Catarratto

Catarratto is the primary white grape in Sicily but is used only in small quantities for blending in Etna Bianco. Other grape varieties grown on Etna include Alicante (Grenache), Rosso Minnella, Pinot Nero, Minnella, Trebbiano, Malvasia, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer, which are also used in minor blending roles or as varietals.

Minnella 

Minnella is an indigenous grape that is exclusively grown in the Etna region and is often found growing alongside Nerello Mascalese and Carricante in older vineyards. The name “Minnella” (“Minnedda janca”) was given to the grape by Etna winemakers due to the unique shape of the berry, which resembles a breast (“minna” in dialect). It can be used in the production of Etna DOC wines, along with Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and Carricante, up to a maximum of 10%. It ripens between the second and third week of September, earlier than the other native grape varieties of Mount Etna, which ripen in the first 20 days of October.
 

What about those gnarly vines?

All over Etna you will find patches of gnarly, old vines. The combination of volcanic and sandy soils (as well as the high elevations) found on the mountain proved to largely stave off phylloxera. And though the vine louse did eventually hit the region, it scarcely travelled above 400 meters above sea level. A similar phenomenon was seen elsewhere in Italy, such as in Campania and even further north in the Soave DOC, where vines on volcanic soils were better able to endure the great wine blight of the latter 1800s, and thus boast many sites where what might be considered “over-mature” vines continue to produce grapes. The advantage of these old vines is their naturally low yields. Vines producing fewer grapes will produce more deeply concentrated grapes, and the abundance of old vines on Etna contribute to the unique power that can be found in these wines.
 
Salvo Foti is a winemaker who pays tribute to some of his older vines with an Etna Rosso bottling he refers to as “Vinupetra Viti Centenaire.” The grapes harvested for this label are entirely from vines 100+ years in age, and the plot for this bottling covers a mere 0.2 hectares, it is a rare cuvee, but one that shines a spotlight on some of Etna’s most unique features.